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5 results for “infragravity waves”
Energy transfers and reflexion of infragravity waves at a dissipative beach under storm waves.
<p>%%% Author: Xavier Bertin (xbertin@univ-lr.fr) %%%<br> %%% Date: 15/04/2020 %%% <br> %%% Purpose: This repository provides the field observations and XBeach model input %%%<br> %%% required to reproduce the results presented in paper referred below. %%%<br> %%% Reference: Bertin, X., Martins, K., de Bakker, A., Guérin, T., Chataigner, T., %%%<br> %%% Coulombier, T. et de Viron, O., 2020. Energy transfers and reflexion of %%%<br> %%% infragravity waves at a dissipative beach under storm waves. In press %%%<br> %%% to Journal of Geophysical Research-Ocean. %%%<br> %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%</p> <p>*The directory Obs includes:<br> -The wave bulk parameters computed as explained in the paper for the 10 sensores used in this<br> study: the offshore ADCP1, the intertidal PT1, PT2, ADCP2/PT3, PT4, PT5, ADV/PT6, PT7/Altus, PT8<br> and PT9. Each file has the same format and includes: the date (YYYY MM DD), the time (HH MM SS), <br> the mean water depth, the spectral significant wave height Hm0, mean wave periods Tm01 and Tm02, <br> the discrete and continuous peak periods, the energetic wave period Tm0,-2 and the spectral<br> significant height of IG waves Hm0,IG. <br> -The spectral significant height Hm0,IG+ and mean wave period Tm02,IG+ of incoming IG waves<br> separated at the ADCP2 and ADV using the method of Guza et al. (1984). The two files have the same <br> format and includes the date (YYYY MM DD), the time (HH MM SS), Hm0,IG+ and Tm02,IG+.<br> -The position of each sensore measured with a geodetic GNSS and provided in the same datum as the <br> bathymetry used in the model (Lambert93 and mean sea level). </p> <p>*The directory XBeach includes all the necessary files required to reproduce the simulations presented <br> in this study<br> -The bathymetry interpolated over a rectilinear grid, with X and Y given in Lambert93 coordinates (files<br> X_L93.grd and Y_L93.grd) and Z referred with respect to mean sea level (Z_L93.grd).<br> -The water level fluctuations measured at ADCP1 (WLevel_ADCP_201702.dat).<br> -The XBeach input file (params.txt) and a file providing the list of directional wave spectra<br> provided in the directory "Spectra_WWIII". These spectra were computed from a regional application of <br> WaveWatchIII over the North Atlantic Ocean and forced with CFSR wind fields but they were converted<br> in the format of SWAN, readable by XBeach.</p>
The closure of a shallow tidal inlet promoted by infragravity waves
<p>This file describes the original data that were used to generate figures 1, 2 and 3 in the manuscript by Bertin et al. to be published in Geophysical Research Letters:</p> <p>Bertin, X., Mendes, D., Martins, K., Fortunato, A.B. and Lavaud, L., 2019. The closure of a shallow tidal inlet promoted by infragravity waves. In revision to Geophysical Research Letters.</p> <p>*<strong>ADCP1_Bulkparameters_Albufeira_201810.dat</strong></p> <p>This file includes the bulk parameters computed over 20’ samples at the ADCP1 that were used to generate figure 2. From left to right, each column corresponds to: date (yyyy mm dd) time (HH MM SS) Free surface elevation [m/MSL] H<sub>m0,G</sub>[m] H<sub>m0,IG</sub>[m] U<sub>m</sub>[m/s] U<sub>10</sub>[m/s] U<sub>90</sub>[m/s] Q<sub>s,IGW</sub>[kg/s/m²] Q<sub>s,tide only</sub>[kg/s/m²]</p> <p>*<strong>ADCP1_2Hzdata_Albufeira_20181014.dat</strong></p> <p> This file includes the 20’ data sampled at 2Hz at the ADCP1 starting on the 14/10/2018 at 6h00. From left to right, each column corresponds to: date (yyyy mm dd) time (HH MM SS.S) water depth [m] alongstream currents [m/s] SSC [g/L].</p> <p>*<strong>PT3_Albufeira_201810.dat</strong></p> <p>This file includes the bulk parameters computed at PT3 based on 30’ samples and used to produce figure 2. From left to right, each column corresponds to: date (yyyy mm dd) time (HH MM SS.S) free surface elevation[m/MSL] Hm0,G[m] Hm0,IG[m].</p> <p><strong>*Topo_20181013_ ETRS89_MSL.dat</strong></p> <p>This file corresponds the topography measured on the 13/10/2018 and includes 3 columns: X, Y and Z. X and Y are horizontal coordinates in the datum ETRS89-PTTM06 and Z is the topography with respect to mean sea level.</p> <p><strong>*Topo_20181014_ ETRS89_MSL.dat</strong></p> <p>This file corresponds the topography measured on the 14/10/2018 and includes 3 columns: X, Y and Z. X and Y are horizontal coordinates in the datum ETRS89-PTTM06 and Z is the topography with respect to mean sea level.</p> <p>*<strong>Coord_Sensores_ ETRS89_MSL</strong>.dat</p> <p>This file corresponds the position of the ADCP1 and PT3 sensors used in this study and includes 3 columns: X, Y and Z. X and Y are horizontal coordinates in the datum ETRS89-PTTM06 and Z is the position of the pressure sensor with respect to mean sea level.</p>
Data related to "Free infragravity waves on the inner shelf: Observations and Parameterizations at two Southern California beaches"
<p><strong>Abstract: </strong></p> <p>Co-located pressure and velocity observations in 10-15m depth are used to estimate the relative contribution of bound and free infragravity (IG) wave energy to the IG wave field. Shoreward and seaward going IG waves are analyzed separately. At the Southern California sites, shoreward propagating IG waves are dominated by free waves, with the bound wave energy fraction <30% for moderate energy incident sea-swell and <10% for low energy incident sea-swell. Only the 5% of records with energetic long swell show primarily bound waves. Consistent with bound IG wave theory, the energy scales as the square (frequency integrated) sea-swell energy, with a higher correlation with swell than sea energy. Seaward and shoreward free IG energy is strongly tidally modulated. The ratio of free seaward to shoreward propagating IG energy suggests between 50-100% of the energy radiated offshore is trapped on the shelf seaward of 10-15m and redirected shoreward. Remote sources of IG energy are small.<br><br>The observed linear dependency of free seaward and shoreward IG energy on local sea-swell wave energy and tide are parameterized with good skill (R2 ~ 0.90). Free (random phase) and bound (phase-coupled) IG waves are included in numerically simulated timeseries for shoreward IG waves that are used to initialize (~ 10m depth) the numerical nonlinear wave transformation SWASH. On the low slope study beach, wave runup is only weakly influenced by free shoreward propagating waves observed at the offshore boundary (foreshore slope = 0.02). <br> </p> <p><strong>Plain Language Summary:</strong></p> <p>Infragravity (IG) waves are long-period (every 25 sec to 2.5 min) waves that contribute to coastal flooding and beach erosion. IG waves, generated near the shoreline by short-period sea-swell (SS) wave groups (known by surfers as "sets"), have long wavelengths (100s of m) and do not curl and break like ordinary sea and swell waves. Instead, they can bounce off the beach face and propagate seaward. Our study concerns IG waves on the inner shelf (10-15m depth, ~ 500-700m offshore), seaward of the region of IG generation. Similar to previous observations in Hawai'i and North Carolina, we find most of the bounced, seaward going IG energy cannot reach deep water and is trapped on the continental shelf. We develop an observation-based estimate IG wave energy on the inner shelf as a function of SS wave energy and tide level. Finally. we show with a numerical model that IG wave runup at the shoreline is influenced only weakly by IG waves on the inner shelf.<br> </p> <p><strong>About the data: </strong></p> <p>The PUV MATLAB data structure is saved in the .mat file provided. Data is aggregated from numerous deployments of Nortek Vectors (PUV) in San Diego County between 2019 and 2022, at Torrey Pines State Beach and Cardiff State Beach. This data was collected by the <a href="https://siocpg.ucsd.edu/">Coastal Processes Group</a> at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography. </p> <p>2488 3 hour at 2Hz timeseries of pressure, cross-shore and alongshore velocity are provided. </p> <ul> <li><em>time</em> is given in UTC time as a MATLAB datetime.</li> <li><em>MOP</em> is the location of the instrument for a specific timeseries given as a MOP number (corresponding to the MOP lines given in O'Reilly et al. (2016) and used by the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP). The MOP number can be used to obtain shorenormal angle and location of the sensor from <a href="https://cdip.ucsd.edu/mops/">https://cdip.ucsd.edu/mops/</a>.</li> <li><em>depth</em> is given as the mean depth over the 3h pressure records in meters and includes the mean tidal elevation.</li> <li><em>P</em> is the detrended pressure data in meters, detided and the mean depth removed.</li> <li><em>U</em> is the detrended cross-shore velocity data in meters/second, with the main tidal constituents M2, S2 and K1 and the mean depth removed, and rotated to be shorenormal according the the MOP angle (+x is onshore).</li> <li><em>V </em>is the detrended alongshore velocity data in meters/second, with the main tidal constituents M2, S2 and K1 and the mean depth removed, and rotated to be shorenormal according the the MOP angle (+y is north).</li> <li><em>sensor_offsets</em> includes both the sensor offset from the sea floor in meters of the pressure sensor and the current meter. These can be used to surface correct the timeseries.</li> </ul> <p>The timeseries are grouped by instrument.</p>
Data and Codes of the Research 《An Analytical Spectral Model for Infragravity Waves over Topography in Intermediate and Shallow Water》
<p>This is the dataset and codes prepared for the submission of the research in the title.</p> <p>Please run the script Main.m directly after unzipping the package. For a detailed guidance of how to use it, please see the Guide.html in the UserGuide folder.</p>
River plume modulation by infragravity wave forcing
<p>Data sets corresponding to "River plume modulation by infragravity wave forcing". This includes:</p> <ul> <li>Salinity, pressure and temperatura data at locations specified in the article (matlab file)</li> <li>ADCP channel velocity (raw, matlab file)</li> <li>16 Hz pressure data from RBR pressure sensor (raw, needs to be imported into matlab/excel, see RBR's website)</li> </ul>
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